The Finger Lakes: A Pilgrimage to Riesling's Hallowed Ground
- Cowboy Somm
- Feb 20
- 3 min read
The journey from Shelburne, Vermont, to the Finger Lakes region of New York was more than just a scenic drive; it was a pilgrimage. The Finger Lakes are home to Riesling wine. My anticipation swelled with each mile, for this region holds a place of reverence in the world of wine, particularly for its Riesling. My studies for sommelier certification had immersed me in the history and terroir of this unique area, and now, I was about to experience it firsthand, tasting the wines from the very pioneers who shaped its destiny: Hermann J. Wiemer and Dr. Konstantin Frank.
The Finger Lakes region is a visual masterpiece. The long, slender lakes, carved into the landscape by ancient glacial forces, stretch like fingers across the rolling hills, creating a panorama of breathtaking beauty. An old Native American legend tells of the Creator, gazing down upon this land with such affection that he reached out to touch it, forming the lakes with his own hand. The tale resonated with me, echoing the mystical connection between the land and its people, much like another Native American legend I knew from my time in Wyoming, the story of Devil's Tower – a story for another time.
Our first stop was the Hermann J. Wiemer winery, and the experience was immediately captivating. The winery itself is a study in modern elegance, a perfect complement to the natural beauty surrounding it. The warm autumn sun bathed the tasting room, its large doors thrown open to create a seamless indoor-outdoor space. As Mrs. Kay and I settled in with a charcuterie board, the tasting began. The Riesling, as expected, lived up to its legendary reputation. The delicate aromas of peach and melon danced on the palate, a testament to the quality of the fruit and the artistry of the winemaking.
Our experience was further enriched by a conversation with winemaker Fred Merwarth. He generously shared insights into the vineyards, the specific grape varietals cultivated, and the challenges of growing grapes in this demanding climate. He spoke with passion about the annual cycle of the vine, the meticulous work in the vineyards, and the constant battle against the elements. This conversation deepened our appreciation for the wines, adding a layer of understanding and respect for the dedication and expertise that goes into each bottle.
After our tasting at Hermann J. Wiemer, we checked into our unique accommodations at Vineyard Villas, a collection of charming tiny houses nestled on the east side of Seneca Lake. The setting was idyllic, with a restaurant boasting an upstairs patio and live music. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky with vibrant hues, we savored the moment, the melodies drifting across the still waters of the lake.
The following day, we embarked on another pilgrimage, this time to the Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery. Dr. Frank, the visionary credited with bringing Riesling to the Finger Lakes, holds a special place in the region's history. The winery, located in his former home, exudes a sense of history and legacy. Our tasting took place on his former patio, a truly immersive experience that connected us to the very place where he pioneered the wines that would define the Finger Lakes. To taste the wines in the shadow of his legacy, surrounded by the vineyards he planted, was a profound and moving experience.
The Finger Lakes region delivered on its promise. The wines were exceptional, the landscape breathtaking, and the experience unforgettable. Mrs. Kay and I left with a sense of fulfillment, already contemplating our return to this remarkable corner of the wine world. The Finger Lakes is more than just a wine region; it's a testament to the power of vision, the dedication of winemakers, and the magic that happens when passion meets terroir. It's a place where history is made, and the legacy of pioneers like Wiemer and Frank continues to inspire and delight wine lovers from around the globe.
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