From Portugal's Charm to Rioja's Grandeur: Tapas, Pinchos and Rioja Reserva!
- Cowboy Somm
- Dec 17, 2024
- 3 min read
Bidding adieu to Portugal, we carried the warmth of its memories on our flight back to Spain, this time landing in Logroño, the beating heart of the Rioja wine region. Our destination: Pamplona, the legendary city famed for its Running of the Bulls festival. But first, a whirlwind wine tour awaited us in Logroño, made even more special by the arrival of our cousin Nathan from Italy, eager to share in the experience.
Landing in Logroño's small airport, we were struck by its tranquility. No bustling crowds, no planes vying for tarmac space—just a serene emptiness that momentarily sparked a fear of impending storms. Thankfully, our concerns were unfounded, and we were soon greeted by two taxis, their drivers seemingly attuned to the airport's rhythm.


Checking into our hotel late in the evening, hunger pangs led us to seek out Logroño's famed "Path of Elephants," a street lined with tapas bars. Despite Mrs. Kay's initial hesitation (and a few near-misses with closing restaurants), we arrived at the bustling path, its vibrant atmosphere and enticing aromas instantly captivating us.


The narrow street, flanked by tapas bars overflowing with culinary delights, was a feast for the senses. Mrs. Kay, drawn to the comforting allure of chicken fingers, declared them the best she'd ever tasted. (Though, I couldn't help but recall Eddie Murphy's skit about the joys of a saltine cracker after days of starvation.)
We embarked on a culinary adventure, sampling a variety of tapas and pinchos, each bite a delightful explosion of flavor. The affordability and impressive selection of Rioja wines further enhanced the experience. Sipping on exquisite Rioja Reserva for mere euros felt like an absolute steal. After an hour of indulging in this gastronomic paradise, we retreated to our hotel, eager to rest before our upcoming wine tour. There is nothing better than enjoying tapas, pinchos and Rioja Reserva in the heart of the land made famous by this delectable pairing.
Our guide promptly collected us the next morning, and with Nathan joining our ranks, we set off on our Rioja adventure. The itinerary promised a fascinating contrast between traditional and modern winemaking. First stop: Bodega El Fabulista in Laguardia, a medieval town perched atop a hill, its strategic location echoing its war-torn past.
The winery, once home to the renowned fable writer Félix María de Samaniego, was a captivating journey through time. Witnessing the ancient process of grape processing in deep lagares, followed by the ingenious gravity-fed system channeling juice to fermentation vats deep beneath the building, left us in awe. The tour culminated in a tasting within the cool depths of the Laguardia caves, where history seemed to seep from the very walls.
Next, we transitioned to the ultra-modern Bodegas Baigorri. Its sleek, glass-encased tasting room atop a hill concealed a seven-story marvel of engineering. The gravity-flow system, a testament to modern innovation, minimized the need for pumps and hoses, preserving the wine's delicate essence. A highlight was the "UFO," a mechanized vat that effortlessly transported wine between tanks, a testament to human ingenuity.
The tour concluded in a stunning dining room, where we savored a gourmet lunch paired with exceptional Rioja wines. (A mental note was made: bring the fancy Resistol cowboy hat next time!) The experience was a symphony of flavors and architectural grandeur, showcasing the best of modern winemaking.
Returning to our hotel, we embraced the Spanish tradition of siesta, recharging for an evening reunion with Nathan on the Path of Elephants. He, too, was captivated by the vibrant atmosphere, the delectable food, and the incredible value. This culinary haven had undoubtedly earned a place on our "must-revisit" list.
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