A Bandol Wine Odyssey in the French Riviera

The European Adventure, a cherished tradition of travel with a select group of friends, this year found us drawn to the adrenaline-fueled spectacle of Pamplona's Running of the Bulls. However, after an exhilarating yet exhausting journey through Portugal and Spain, Mrs. Kay and I yearned for a respite from the whirlwind of activity. A Mediterranean cruise, embarking from Barcelona and culminating in the Eternal City of Rome, presented the perfect opportunity for relaxation and exploration.

A view of Monte Carlo and the Mediterranean Sea.

Yet, even amidst the allure of ancient ruins and picturesque coastal towns, a personal quest fueled my anticipation: to encounter a bottle of Bandol, specifically the revered Mourvèdre red. Bandol, a diminutive appellation nestled within the heart of Provence, boasts a mere 1,550 hectares of vineyards, a minuscule acreage dwarfed by the vast expanse of the French wine landscape. This scarcity, compounded by the irresistible allure of the French Riviera, has rendered these wines increasingly elusive, coveted by discerning wine enthusiasts worldwide. This truly was to be a Bandol wine odyssey in the French Riviera.

However, the allure of Bandol reds proved irresistible. Their core, a minimum of 50% Mourvèdre – a grape that has captivated my palate in recent years – is complemented by a supporting cast of Grenache, Cinsault, Carignan, and Syrah. These grapes, nurtured by the region's unique Mediterranean climate, with its intense sunshine and dry, warm winds, achieve a level of ripeness and complexity rarely found elsewhere.

As our ship gracefully glided into the harbor of Villefranche-sur-Mer, a palpable excitement rippled through the group. My friends, eager to explore the vibrant cities of Nice, Monte Carlo, and Cannes, anticipated a whirlwind of sightseeing and cultural immersion. However, my focus remained steadfast: the pursuit of Bandol.

A row of super yachts in Monte Carlo.

Our first stop was Monte Carlo, a dazzling display of opulence. We strolled along the harbor, marveling at the extravagant yachts that seemed to vie for attention, each a testament to the extravagant lifestyles of their owners. We then ascended the hillside to the Prince's Palace, a majestic edifice offering breathtaking panoramas of the glittering coastline. This visit served as a poignant reminder of Monaco's unique status as an independent principality, a microcosm of wealth and privilege nestled within the French Riviera.

The Prince's Palace in Monaco

In Eze, a medieval village perched dramatically atop a towering cliff, the group opted for the scenic but time-consuming ascent via the winding footpath that snaked its way to the peak at the center of this medieval city. However, I chose a different path: the pursuit of Bandol. My quest led me to "Mets Vins Chic," a name that promised an elegant convergence of wine and cuisine. The exterior, understated yet inviting, belied the treasures that awaited within.

As I stepped inside, a magnificent wine wall greeted me, a veritable treasure trove of vintages from around the world. And there it was – Bandol, a small but significant section dedicated to the esteemed wines of this renowned appellation. A sense of anticipation, bordering on exhilaration, coursed through me. I secured a table, eager to embark on this personal wine odyssey.

The wine wall at Mets Vins Chic

A fellow sommelier, the waiter, quickly discerned my enthusiasm. When I inquired about the finest Bandol on offer, he confidently recommended the Cuvée du Falun Vieille Vigne 2015 from Domaine Ray-Jane. His recommendation, delivered with an air of assurance, further heightened my anticipation.

The Bandol wine of choice on this day.

As the waiter gracefully retrieved the bottle from the previously mentioned wine wall, I perused the menu. Duck breast, a classic pairing for bold red wines, immediately caught my eye. Mrs. Kay, ever the gracious companion, graciously offered to share, allowing me to fully savor each bite and sip.

Finally, the wine arrived. The deep, intense ruby hue of the liquid within the glass was a visual testament to its power and complexity. On the nose, a captivating symphony of aromas unfolded: ripe black fruit, a hint of licorice, and a subtle touch of clove. As I brought the wine to my lips, the anticipation reached a crescendo.

The first sip was revelatory. A wave of flavor washed over my palate, a harmonious blend of ripe black fruit, notably plum and cassis, interwoven with earthy undertones of mushroom and forest floor. The tannins, firm yet well-integrated, provided a robust structure, while a vibrant acidity balanced the richness of the fruit. A long, lingering finish, replete with lingering notes of spice and minerality, completed this sensory experience.

Sharing this remarkable wine with my friends, witnessing their appreciation as they savored each sip, was immensely gratifying. The earthy sauce that enveloped the perfectly cooked duck breast proved to be the ideal complement to the wine's robust character. As we lingered, savoring the final moments of this memorable encounter, I knew this was more than just a wine tasting; it was a profound and inspiring journey of discovery.

One last drink before leaving the French Riviera.

This Bandol Odyssey, a testament to the enduring allure of wine and the joy of exploration, will forever hold a special place in my memory. It was a reminder that the most rewarding travel experiences often lie not just in the grand sights and bustling cities, but in the quiet moments of discovery, the unexpected encounters, and the shared pleasures of enjoying life's simple yet profound delights.